Shealoe (Part 1)

by Guest Blogger – Susan Barclay-Nichols

Shealoe butter (INCI Aloe barbadensis leaf juice (and) butryrospermum parkii (shea butter) fruit) is two great things in one! With a melting point of 50˚C, it will melt on your skin on contact, offering great moisturizing and skin softening, as well increasing skin’s barrier repair properties and cell regeneration while decreasing redness, irritation, and trans-epidermal water loss.

Shea butter contains about 35{2f217b6ef4e944ec449aa2c625e1f0e1f43c0ee840d0a16b8bf46c3ef1173473} to 45{2f217b6ef4e944ec449aa2c625e1f0e1f43c0ee840d0a16b8bf46c3ef1173473} Stearic Acid and about 40{2f217b6ef4e944ec449aa2c625e1f0e1f43c0ee840d0a16b8bf46c3ef1173473} to 55{2f217b6ef4e944ec449aa2c625e1f0e1f43c0ee840d0a16b8bf46c3ef1173473} Oleic Acid, both of which are great softening and moisturizing fatty acids. It contains 210 ppm to 325 ppm Tocopherols (Vitamin E), which are great anti-oxidants that not only retard the rancidity of oils but soften and moisturize your skin. It contains phytosterols like cinnamic acid esters, which can reduce superficial skin irritation and redness, and Allantoin, which is an approved barrier ingredient that can temporarily prevent and protect chafed, chapped, cracked, or windburned skin by speeding up the natural processes of the skin and increasing its water content. It acts an occlusive to keep the water in and prevent the elements from destroying our skin!

Shea butter melts at body temperature and our skin quickly absorbs it. Aloe Vera contains a ton of wonderful phytosterols, polyphenols, and polysaccharides that help to moisturize our skin. Polysaccharides create a light barrier on your skin to decrease trans-epidermal water loss and the phytosterols work to reduce inflammation, redness, and itching as well as a decrease in transepidermal water loss.The flavones behave as anti-oxidants, and the choline increases our skin humidity up to 40{2f217b6ef4e944ec449aa2c625e1f0e1f43c0ee840d0a16b8bf46c3ef1173473} within 30 minutes of application.

By combining the two we get an oil soluble butter packed with anti-oxidants, phytosterols, Vitamin E, and wonderful fatty acids that will work to reduce transepidermal water loss, increase the humidity of our skin, increase softening and moisturizing, reduce inflammation, redness, and itching, and behave as an occlusive ingredient to keep the weather from chapping or burning our skin. It’s a fantastic way to get all the healing and soothing qualities of Aloe Vera into an anhydrous product, like a lotion bar, whipped butter, lip balm, or oil based sugar scrub!

This butter is very soft and it’s recommended you don’t melt it much as the aloe and shea parts might separate under the kind of heat we use to heat and hold our lotions (about 70˚C). I use it in my creations either cold or add it when I’ve taken my creation – say, a body lotion or lotion bar – out of the double boiler and have done a little mixing first. If you’re making a lotion bar with Shealoe, remember that it is very soft and use it with another butter like cocoa, mango or shea so the bar will keep its shape. When you’re making whipped butters with it, you don’t need to melt it at all – just get your mixer ready to make a fluffy creation!

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